Saturday, October 21, 2017

Cadiz - Plaza de San Antonio

We've been without secure WiFi for a few days, hence no blog posts.  As we knew would eventually happen, we reserved an AirBnb for our second trip to Cadiz at a place that was pretty awful - filthy, dusty, uncomfortable, with no secure wifi, and to the Princess, totally unacceptable.  We ended up staying there 2 nights due to issues with canceling and lining up another accommodation.  Yes, we lost a few dollars on the deal, but we went back to someone we were hosted by before and are now situated in an apartment overlooking Plaza de San Antonio again.  This one is on the third (ground, one, two) floor and it is beautiful.  This apartment is what we both needed after two nights in "hell".  It is a vacation unto itself.  This is the view from the two windows I can see from the bed (where I plan to stay for at least 3 hours; yes, a traditional siesta is in my future).

The building across Plaza de San Antonio from the apartment


Just to catch up, we arrived on October 19 and we did explore Cadiz for two days.  We stayed away from the nasty apartment as long as we could each day before going back there just to sleep.  [Oh, and we both got our long delayed flu shots; delayed because I was still having bronchial trouble due to the wildfire smoke in the air in the Pacific Northwest.  Of course, we don't have preventative coverage abroad, so it was out-of-pocket - 8 euros each (times 1.18 for dollars) and a quick jab at the Farmacia. No side effects yet, and it's been over two days.]

However during that time, we visited the excavation of the Roman amphitheater, the Museum of Cadiz, and strolled many times through the Plaza de Espana, the Plaza de la Flores, the General Market, and along the waterfront.

The Teatro Romano de Cadiz is pretty spectacular.  http://turismo.cadiz.es/en/rutas-y-visitas-en-cadiz/roman-theatre  The city has created a simple and wonderful way for visitors to actually see the unfolding amphitheater dig by using windowed viewing areas, viewing platforms that are much closer to the dig, and even creating a walkway underneath the earth where the underground access was for the Roman participants so many thousands of years ago.  It was apparently built in about 70 BC, which tells me that it was there before the Cadiz Cathedral next door.


Downstairs, you can go under the dig through the original circular tunnels.

Steve on one of the observation decks that are accessed by the tunnels.  You can see the other observation deck behind him.

We walked up a ramp to the glassed in viewing area
View from the glassed in area.  This was discovered only a few years ago when a construction project began between that white building and the Cadiz Cathedral.
View of the Roman "backstage" area under the museum floor.  There only a few of the amphitheater seating benches exposed.  This stage is pretty far down.

Then, we found the Torre Tavira (Tavira Tower), which is an iconic site in Cadiz.  http://www.torretavira.com/en/  It appears to be just another building along one of the many narrow streets., but it is one of 126 watchtowers incorporated into buildings and strewn today all over Cadiz  It is the tallest of the watchtowers and probably dates from the 17th century.  They were used by merchants to keep an eye on traffic in the Bay of Cadiz when the city was a major trade hub in the Mediterranean.  In 1777, there were 160 of these towers and, amazingly, 126 are still standing!  [After our experience of trying to ascend the cathedral tower, Steve and I chose not to try to go all the way up to the viewing floor where the best view of Cadiz is spread before you.  Maybe before we leave.]







 The Museum of Cadiz ( http://turismo.cadiz.es/en/rutas-y-visitas-en-cadiz/museum-cadiz )was a wonderful place to see some of the Phoenician and Roman artifacts found in Cadiz. Apparently, the archaeological collection began in 1887 when the first sarcophagus was discovered in the shipyard area of Cadiz.  There are also many visual art collections, but I was fascinated by the artifacts.

The funerary pieces are most notable, apparently.  They are said to have been found all along the sides of the road leading to the Tierra Gate to the city.


Massive jigsaw puzzle.  This only a small part of the floor they are reconstructing.



Here are the first pieces found - the sarcophagi. 
by Joan Miro
I just liked the light against dark and forgot to see who painted it.  My bad.

And then we walked... 
The centre of the Plaza de Espana in Cadiz


The lovely waterfront near the Cathedral at night.

Plaza de la Flores near the Central Market with the Correo building int the background.  The Correo is the post office and that's not scaffolding, but preparations for the lighting for some upcoming fiesta, I think.


Here's where you put your mail for Cadiz



We have a little less than two more blissful days in Cadiz.  Of all the cities that we have visited in Spain, Cadiz is by far our favorite.  I think we could both see ourselves living here, if we ever decided to live abroad.  But, we are off to Madrid on Monday by train to stay for two nights and see the Reina Sofia Museum.  If Guernica is there, we are going to see it, by golly.  

Tonight, we have to make a final decision about where we go from Madrid on Oct. 25.  We really, really want to see Barcelona, but it just won't settle down.  So, it's probably off to France - Marseille and Provence, perhaps, or Italy.  We have lots of thinking to do.



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