Cadiz - Plaza de San Antonio

We've been without secure WiFi for a few days, hence no blog posts.  As we knew would eventually happen, we reserved an AirBnb for our second trip to Cadiz at a place that was pretty awful - filthy, dusty, uncomfortable, with no secure wifi, and to the Princess, totally unacceptable.  We ended up staying there 2 nights due to issues with canceling and lining up another accommodation.  Yes, we lost a few dollars on the deal, but we went back to someone we were hosted by before and are now situated in an apartment overlooking Plaza de San Antonio again.  This one is on the third (ground, one, two) floor and it is beautiful.  This apartment is what we both needed after two nights in "hell".  It is a vacation unto itself.  This is the view from the two windows I can see from the bed (where I plan to stay for at least 3 hours; yes, a traditional siesta is in my future).

The building across Plaza de San Antonio from the apartment

Just to catch up, we arrived on October 19 and we did explore Cadiz for two days.  We stayed away from the nasty apartment as long as we could each day before going back there just to sleep.  [Oh, and we both got our long delayed flu shots; delayed because I was still having bronchial trouble due to the wildfire smoke in the air in the Pacific Northwest.  Of course, we don't have preventative coverage abroad, so it was out-of-pocket - 8 euros each (times 1.18 for dollars) and a quick jab at the Farmacia. No side effects yet, and it's been over two days.]

However during that time, we visited the excavation of the Roman amphitheater, the Museum of Cadiz, and strolled many times through the Plaza de Espana, the Plaza de la Flores, the General Market, and along the waterfront.

The Teatro Romano de Cadiz is pretty spectacular.  http://turismo.cadiz.es/en/rutas-y-visitas-en-cadiz/roman-theatre  The city has created a simple and wonderful way for visitors to actually see the unfolding amphitheater dig by using windowed viewing areas, viewing platforms that are much closer to the dig, and even creating a walkway underneath the earth where the underground access was for the Roman participants so many thousands of years ago.  It was apparently built in about 70 BC, which tells me that it was there before the Cadiz Cathedral next door.

Downstairs, you can go under the dig through the original circular tunnels.

Steve on one of the observation decks that are accessed by the tunnels.  You can see the other observation deck behind him.

We walked up a ramp to the glassed in viewing area

View from the glassed in area.  This was discovered only a few years ago when a construction project began between that white building and the Cadiz Cathedral.

View of the Roman "backstage" area under the museum floor.  There only a few of the amphitheater seating benches exposed.  This stage is pretty far down.

Then, we found the Torre Tavira (Tavira Tower), which is an iconic site in Cadiz.  http://www.torretavira.com/en/  It appears to be just another building along one of the many narrow streets., but it is one of 126 watchtowers incorporated into buildings and strewn today all over Cadiz  It is the tallest of the watchtowers and probably dates from the 17th century.  They were used by merchants to keep an eye on traffic in the Bay of Cadiz when the city was a major trade hub in the Mediterranean.  In 1777, there were 160 of these towers and, amazingly, 126 are still standing!  [After our experience of trying to ascend the cathedral tower, Steve and I chose not to try to go all the way up to the viewing floor where the best view of Cadiz is spread before you.  Maybe before we leave.]

 The Museum of Cadiz ( http://turismo.cadiz.es/en/rutas-y-visitas-en-cadiz/museum-cadiz )was a wonderful place to see some of the Phoenician and Roman artifacts found in Cadiz. Apparently, the archaeological collection began in 1887 when the first sarcophagus was discovered in the shipyard area of Cadiz.  There are also many visual art collections, but I was fascinated by the artifacts.

The funerary pieces are most notable, apparently.  They are said to have been found all along the sides of the road leading to the Tierra Gate to the city.

Massive jigsaw puzzle.  This only a small part of the floor they are reconstructing.

Here are the first pieces found - the sarcophagi. 

by Joan Miro

I just liked the light against dark and forgot to see who painted it.  My bad.

And then we walked... 

The centre of the Plaza de Espana in Cadiz

The lovely waterfront near the Cathedral at night.

Plaza de la Flores near the Central Market with the Correo building int the background.  The Correo is the post office and that's not scaffolding, but preparations for the lighting for some upcoming fiesta, I think.

Here's where you put your mail for Cadiz

We have a little less than two more blissful days in Cadiz.  Of all the cities that we have visited in Spain, Cadiz is by far our favorite.  I think we could both see ourselves living here, if we ever decided to live abroad.  But, we are off to Madrid on Monday by train to stay for two nights and see the Reina Sofia Museum.  If Guernica is there, we are going to see it, by golly.  

Tonight, we have to make a final decision about where we go from Madrid on Oct. 25.  We really, really want to see Barcelona, but it just won't settle down.  So, it's probably off to France - Marseille and Provence, perhaps, or Italy.  We have lots of thinking to do.

Rota shoes

We managed to get out of the apartment before siesta today.  Oh, frabjous day!  And, after a delicious pastry and the ubiquitous Coca Cola, we bumbled around until we found the central street of shops and the shoe store we saw yesterday.

We were both in need of shoes.  With all this walking, we still haven't found quite the right pairs of shoes.  Those thong sandals that I purchased to help one foot heal worked; my right foot is much improved.  But, they caused a problem and blister for the other foot.  So, here is my new selection and they seem to be comfortable from the get go.  Nike running shoes (no, Mom, I couldn't find a decent New Balance in the whole of Rota, but these are just nice comfy/stretchy cloth on a running shoe sole that I think will support my extra wide monkey-toes).  For certain, they will give my left foot a chance to heal - the huge blister from the thong on the sandals and the joint at the base of the large toe that I tripped and jammed a couple weeks ago in Cadiz.  The shoes are basic black and suitable for all/most occasions - and they are light for packing.  Win-win!

Tambien, Steve has a new pair of Nike's - mustard colored, but the important thing is that his feet are happy.  So, now we decide which shoes to toss because we are most certainly not hauling more than 2 pairs of shoes around.  It looks like they may be the previously purchased new shoes from Cadiz.  Live and learn.

The kitchen is stocked with sandwich makings and snacks.  We are ready for the thunder and lighting show promised by Weather.com which will begin promptly at 5pm in Rota, we are told.  This should be good, thunder rolling off the bay with the huge breaking waves, and we will be able to see it all from our terrace at the back of the apartment.

Reservations are made with AirBnb for our 10/23-10/25 visit to Madrid.  I think we are on a roll.  Now, we just need ferry tickets to Cadiz on Thursday and Renfe (train) tickets from Cadiz to Madrid.  Let the light show begin!

Rota for 3 more days

Okay, Rota is very nice.  The beaches are fantastic, even in October, and the crowds are gone.  But, there isn't much for non-drinkers who don't para-sail surf to do here, except walk.  There are few historical sights to see.  The Castillo, the local castle, appears to now be used for the local government.  There are very few taxis and there are 3 small bus routes for getting around town.  It seems to be a rather picturesque bedroom community for the U.S.Naval Station.

Of course, there is always eating.  I love the stewed chicken at Bar El Espadero at Plaza de Triunfo.  Espadero is known for this meal and it is SO delicious.   In fact, this is a small skillet of the "Swordmaster" chicken with their fresh julienned potatoes (patatas).   But the first time I ordered it, the waiter brought out a long roasting pan full of chicken and potatoes, with that fantastic juice/gravy.  But, that would have served a table of 6 adults and this was just for me.  They were nice enough to take the big pan back and bring me this (pictured) small skillet that I thought I ordered.  (I felt pretty bad because the waiter looked so proud and triumphant when he presented that roasting pan. )  I always pair this sort of meal with a 2017 Coca Cola, an vintage.  Mmmm...

Every meal starts with olives and they are really tasty.  And, of course, you can't have fresh bread without some salted olive oil to dip it in.

Today is the second day of high winds and partial overcast weather in Rota.  The Bay of Cadiz is very interesting to watch now because the waves are huge, especially near the jetty, and there are several para sailors out there jumping way out of the water because of the almost gale force winds.   But, we have 3 more nights here in Rota and the weather predictions say it's going to stay overcast; in fact, tomorrow is predicted to have thunder and lightening.  Guess Fall is here.  At least, the temperatures are still in the upper 70s.

I swear this is the same sort of bush that I saw all over Arizona and they grow big and beautiful here.

Yesterday, I passed this statue while trying to find my chicken lunch.

Today, in high winds and overcast, we found the beach in front of the Castillo.  The surf was very rough.

I was curious.  This permanent street sign has the word for "kiss" in it.  It translates as "Kiss me on this corner".  Hmmm...  this must be the local "lover's leap".

Something important happened here, but I have NO idea what it was.

I did find the local shopping area, though, and I plan do some shoe shopping there soon (when it's not siesta time).  I need to be able to walk without any hurting and I'm still getting twinges on the left foot joint that I jammed a couple weeks ago.  It doesn't hurt when I walk barefoot, which tells me I just need the right pair of shoes.  I'm going for a pair of New Balance or Nike running shoes.  Then, one of my pairs of sandals is going to be going away.  Rule # 1, if you buy something, you discard something else from your luggage.

By the way, the fashions for ladies here (no matter how much you weigh) call for skinny pants - leggings or skinny legging-like jeans.  Those are paired with snug-fitting tank tops, designer Ts, or loose tunics.  The ladies here have style, I must say.  There are lots of scarves, beautiful shoes, painted nails, and pouty looks.  The waiters here take one look at me and hand me the English menu before I even open my mouth.  I was prepared for that, but my pouty look needs a lot of work.  Oh, I'm pouty, just don't have the look.

Current plans - we are leaving Rota by ferry (or if the water is too choppy, by bus) and heading for Cadiz again on Thursday.  We have reservations for 3 nights to finish our explorations of Cadiz.  We haven't seen the Roman theatre excavation or the archaeological museum.  Then, we plan to take the train to Madrid to see the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia - http://www.museoreinasofia.es/en/visit.  That is the last museum that we had on our 1 year Paseo del Arte tickets and, after we left Madrid last time (without seeing the Reina Sofia), Steve discovered that the the original Picasso piece, Guernica, is there.  The piece in situ at Guernica, Spain is actually a copy.  So, since we have to pass through Madrid to get just about anywhere in the north and east, by golly we are stopping to see Guernica.  We will make reservations for two nights in Madrid to give us a whole day to see the museum.  Then, we are considering heading for Barcelona, if the troubles are over, or if they aren't we'll just transfer to a train to Marseille, see some of Provence and decide whether to head toward Paris then or into Italy.

We are less enamoured of settling down in Spain.  Our language skills are still pretty pequeno and it's wearing on me, for one.  Why is English only spoken in cold, wet places in Europe, I ask you?