The Mistral of Provence

Walking to the Arles train station along the Rhone river walkway this morning, wearing my backpack and dragging my suitcase behind me, I battled 50-60 mph winds and gusts. I was bundled up in my sweater jacket, hooded windbreaker and baseball hat (under the hood). Yet, I felt like I could lean into that headwind and just hang suspended there.  All I could do was literally put "one foot in front of the other" and watch Steve's back waaay, way ahead of me to make sure I was still following him. And, while I walked, I comtemplated the wind - the Mistral, as the locals call it.

Now, I remember:

1. All the ancient fairytales that I read as a child.  The cruel, cold North wind, the competition between the East and the West winds. Wind is a protagonist in some of these tales and now I know why.  This wind is all consuming, an obstacle when leaving your doorway and a threat inside your house. This wind is something to fear.
2. Movies, like Chocolat and A Year in Provence, point out that the Provencal winds start in the Fall and blow for months. As I walked, I envisioned myself as Vianne, walking uphill with her daughter, their red-hooded cloaks flapping wildly in the extreme wind. The Mistral can make people crazy - it is howling day and night, buffeting you like a doll, banging shutters, day after day after day. It's like Chinese water torture, I imagine, to live each day in these Autumn winds.
3. Van Gogh's painting Starry Night - I read recently that an astrophysicist theorized that Van Gogh had an understanding of the currents of light rays long before science discovered them and the scientist used Starry Night as his evidence. However, after experiencing Provence in November, I'm sure Van Gogh was painting the Mistral winds that howl and swirl in Avignon and Arles, where he could have been painting on a clear Fall or Winter night in the heart of Provence.

Fortunately, we made it to the train station in time for our - Bus.  It was a long trip - Bus to Tarragona, French train to Nimes, Spanish train from Nimes to Barcelona, subway train from the Station to the Raval neighbourhood near the Plaza de Catalunya and the Ramblas, then walking to the Plaza de Raval to meet our next host.  Five long hours; but, it was worth it and, best of all, there is NO WIND!  We are in beautiful Barcelona, it's at least 4 degrees F warmer, and we have already eaten our dinner from a restaurant stall at the huge local marketplace - delicious broiled chicken breast and very tasty seasoned potatoes and peppers.  The market seems to be bordered on both sides with large Roman-style columns.  We'll get a closer look at them tomorrow to see if they really are Roman.